“Drink any kind of wine you like. Loaf around in the high-toned bars, or in the honky-tonks. It is a city in which the spirit can know refreshment every day.”
-- William Saroyan
San Francisco is a city of neighborhoods, each with its own residents, gas stations, hardware stores and, drink of choice. The San Francisco Travel Association, www.sanfrancisco.travel, asked selected “representatives” what drink they thought best typified their stomping grounds. As a result, nine San Francisco neighborhoods were uncovered where one can go on a quest to quench their thirst.
CHINATOWNLocation: Bounded by Kearny, Powell, California and Broadway streets
During the 1850s, the number of Chinese in California increased greatly due to the Gold Rush. The language barrier forced the Chinese to band together. Chinatown developed its own organizational network based on traditional Cantonese structures to provide for the needs of its people. The 1906 earthquake and fire destroyed all of Chinatown, but the Chinese returned to the area and rebuilt. Chinatown continues to have the highest density of any neighborhood in the City.
According to Shirley Fong-Torres, owner and founder of “Wok Wiz Adventures” walking tour, the drink of Chinatown is, beyond a doubt, Oolong tea with ginseng and chrysanthemum flowers.
In China, there are sacred gardens that produce tea. At one time, the tea in these sacred gardens was only allowed to be touched by the human skin of the Emperor. All others wore silk gloves. These sacred gardens still exist -- Green and Oolong teas -- fall into this category.
Oolong is a semi-oxidized whole-leaf tea in hues ranging between a pale cherry and deep red. The water used to prepare Oolong is very important. It should contain calcium and be odor free.
Adding ginseng, “gives energy to experience Chinatown” and the chrysanthemum “helps the eyesight,” says Fong-Torres.
Contact Shirley Fong-Torres, Chinatown Adventures with the Wok Wiz at 650-355-9657.
FISHERMAN’S WHARFLocation: bounded by Bay, the Embarcadero, Powell and Kearny streets.
Fisherman’s Wharf, the home of San Francisco’s fishing fleet, has a history dating back to the days when the gold-seeking Argonauts of 1849 turned the Spanish “pueblo” of Yerba Buena into a booming city almost overnight. Italian fisherman settled in the Wharf in the 1880’s to dominate the fishing industry. It also became the graveyard of ships, abandoned by gold-seekers in search of their fortunes in the Sierra foothills.
Today, this neighborhood is one of San Francisco’s most popular destinations. A long coastal row of seafood restaurants, street vendors and souvenir stores surround a major fishing pier.
Cynthia Traina, of Alioto’s Restaurant, a San Francisco landmark since 1932, said that the Wharf has predominantly been a tourist neighborhood, thus making it hard to pin down one drink for the area. Would it be a drink favored among the fishermen who still use the wharf, or a drink favored by the tourists who shop at the wharf? Each would be a different response.
Among the fishermen, Traina says it would have to be a glass of Chianti wine.
A favorite drink among the tourists of Fisherman’s Wharf is Irish Coffee at the Buena Vista Bar, 2765 Hyde Street.
Everyday the Buena Vista doles out gallons of their private label Irish Whiskey. The Irish Coffee was introduced to San Francisco and become an overnight hit On the night of November 10, 1952, while Buena Vista owner Jack Koeppler was bartending and catering to international travel writer Stanton Delaplane.
Koeppler queried Delaplane about a San Francisco Examiner article he wrote chronicling his experience tasting Irish Coffee at Dublin’s Shannon Airport. Delaplane attempted to recreate it, but Koeppler was not impressed -- the cream wouldn’t float.
They made a pilgrimage to Shannon Airport to discover first-hand the true formula for Irish Coffee from the originator, bartender Joe Sheridan. The problem of the sinking cream was taken to then-mayor of San Francisco, George Christopher, who also owned a large dairy. Christopher put his chemists to work and the answer was to “age” the cream for 48 hours, then froth it to the consistency of pancake batter.
The 24,296 liters of Irish Whiskey, 6,948 pounds of sugar and 22,264 quarts of whipping cream consumed per year testify to its popularity. Since its birth in 1952, more than 18 million Irish Coffees have been served with an average of 2,000 a day at the Buena Vista.
“In San Francisco, there are three things you must have: Dungeness crab, sourdough bread and an Irish Coffee,” says Michael Cardin, general manager of the Buena Vista Bar. “We didn’t invent Irish Coffee, but we perfected it.”
For Alioto’s Restaurant contact Trévar Booker at 414-6783-8300, ext. 1306. For Buena Vista Bar contact Michael Cardin at 415-474-5044.
FINANCIAL DISTRICTLocation: Bounded by Clay, Montgomery and Market streets, and the Embarcadero.
The Financial District is considered the heart of San Francisco. However, after the 1906 earthquake and fire, nothing was left. Towering buildings – modern for the turn of the century -- crumbled and left the early century executives at a stand still. Within time, the Financial District was re-built and today can easily be spotted from anywhere on the Bay.
Robert Buich of Tadich Grill (240 California St.), the oldest restaurant in San Francisco, claims that there are two drinks of the Financial District, one ordered at lunch and the other after work.
At lunch, people working in the Financial District today would not order a cocktail or anything stronger, unlike the three martini lunches of the past.
“They are still on the clock and have to go back to the office,” says Buich.
Thus, a glass of “local” Chardonnay, grown and bottled in the nearby wine country, would be the drink of choice among execs during the noon hour. However, at precisely the stroke of five, the drink of choice is a Vodka Martini made with a premium vodka such as the locally produced Hangar One Vodka.
“They may drink less, but they’re drinking much better. Quantity down, quality up,” adds Buich.
Contact Robert Buich, Tadich Grill, at 415-391-1849.
Location: Sheltered by Telegraph Hill on the East and Russian Hill on the West, it slopes gently from Broadway to the Bay where it embraces Fisherman’s Wharf.
The only sand to be found around San Francisco’s North Beach is a slender strand at Aquatic Park, its northwest extremity. North Beach is a sunny, self-contained enclave of inns, restaurants, theaters, shops, churches, coffeehouses, cabarets and sidewalk cafes. For more than a century, in spite of every kind of cultural incursion, including the Beat generation, North Beach has remained a microcosm of Italy.
Gianfranco Audieri, a 16-year veteran chef at Fior d’Italia (2237 Mason), the oldest Italian restaurant in San Francisco, claims that the drink of choice is Picon Punch.
In 1837, a Frenchman named Gaetan Picon was living in Philippeville, Belgium, when he first concocted Amer Picon -- an orange bitter cordial that does wonders for the appetite and works well as a stomachic.
By the turn of the century Picon moved back to his native land and began mass production of Amer Picon, which later became known as Picon Punch. The Italians went on to perfect the drink by adding grenadine.
San Franciscans consume 80 to 90 percent of all the Amer Picon distributed in the United States. Eighty-five percent of which is said to be enjoyed in North Beach according to the Amer Picon company.
Another liquid that is consumed in mass quantities among the streets of this “Little Italy” is espresso. “Great coffee is like great olive oil, a combination of art and science, something to be consumed quickly after it is ready, before the smoothness of the coffee turns sour,” says Tom Medin who conducts a food tour in North Beach called “Local Tastes of the City.” “Just like olive oil, San Francisco’s North Beach has meshed the art and science of roasting coffee together in a way that makes drinking it an act of self-indulgence and pleasure that reaffirms us as the American Tuscany.”
Contact Gianfranco Audieri at Fior d’Italia at 415-986-1886. Contact Tom Medin, Local Tastes of the City at 415-665-0480.
NOB HILLLocation: Bounded by Hyde, Powell, Washington and California streets
For more than a century, Nob Hill has been associated with the upper crust. At a 24.8 percent grade, it was originally considered too steep to be a prime location. However, the completion of a cable car line in 1843 made the hill accessible and for the next 30 years the district became a showcase for the wealthy.
“Nob” is a contraction of the Hindu word nabob or nawwab: a person, especially a European, who has made a large fortune in India or another country of the East; or a very wealthy or powerful person.
San Francisco’s nobs included such captains of industry as: Leland Stanford, Mark Hopkins, Charles Crocker and Collis Huntington.
Ty Sanders, veteran bartender at the Big Four in the Huntington Hotel (1075 California Street), created a toasty drink for guests to enjoy by the fireplace on a typically cool and foggy San Francisco night called the “Huntington Hush.” Made with Tusca, an Italian vanilla citrus-flavored liqueur that appeared in the U.S. in the 1950s, he blends it with water, whipped cream and nutmeg. He enjoys making this drink for guests who don’t know what they want, but want something warm, enveloping and classic to enjoy – nothing too trendy or flashy. “It’s the perfect drink for Nob Hill,” he says. “It’s distinct, stately and lush, just like the neighborhood.”
Contact the Big Four at the Huntington through Kellie James, public relations manager, at 415-345-2826.
UNION SQUARELocation: Bounded by Kearny, Bush, Taylor and Market streets
At the heart of the shopping district, Union Square is one of the most historic and beloved places in San Francisco. It was named on the eve of the Civil War because of the demonstrations in support of the Union troops. Union Square also doubles as the roof of the world’s first underground multi-level parking garage. Landscaped with grass and colorful flowers, the Square is a popular setting for civic events and seasonal programs.
It is claimed that San Francisco is the home of the famed martini cocktail. Lee Housekeeper of John’s Grill believes that Union Square is the birthplace of the martini. Any movie buff would have to agree. The fictional 1927 book-turned-movie, The Maltese Falcon, by Dashiell Hammett, immortalized the martini.
In the film, a martini is shown in the hands of Humphrey Bogart, dining at John’s Grill, in the heart of Union Square.
“It portrayed the ultimate in sophistication,” Housekeepers says.
Contact Lee Housekeeper, media contact for John’s Grill at 415-777-4700.
THE MISSIONLocation: East base of Twin Peaks, bordered by Potrero Hill, Bernal Heights and 14th Street
The Mission District derives its name from Mission Dolores, near 16th and Dolores Streets. It was part of several large land-grants that were broken up with the secession of Mexico from Spain in 1821. After World War II, many of the middle class of the Mission joined the move to the suburbs of San Francisco. Thus, Latinos (Nicaraguan, Mexican, Cuban, Peruvian, Argentinean and others) eventually moved into these vacancies in the Mission. Today more than 52 percent of the Mission District’s population is Latino.
Calvin Schneiter, owner of Andalu Restaurant, a favorite culinary oasis in the Mission, chooses sangria as the “official” drink of this barrio. “Sangria is a refreshing drink prepared with the freshest of fruits, hints of cinnamon, and plenty of love, passion and ‘sabor Latino,’” he says. “Sangria evokes feelings of celebration as it is a colorful drink that can be shared with friends and family.”
Contact Calvin Schneiter, Andalu, www.andalusf.com, at 415-621-2211.Location: Bounded by 17th and Fulton streets, Golden Gate Park, Buena Vista Park and Baker Street
Prior to 1870, the Haight-Ashbury was basically a rural suburb of the City. In 1870, the San Francisco Park Commission was formed by California Governor Haight to develop Golden Gate Park.
The 1906 earthquake caused a migration of the City’s survivors to the Western areas not destroyed by the fire. This post-earthquake boom brought all walks of life to the Haight. During the 60s, the “beatniks” of North Beach, forerunners of the “hippies” settled in parts of the Panhandle, a park just outside the opening of Golden Gate Park. The Haight-Ashbury today is apt to be more “yuppie” than “hippie” with a dash of “punk.”
While the Summer of Love was 40 years ago, in many ways the Haight-Ashbury continues to awaken the conscious and the unconscious.
“Grass has a new connotation here and now,” said Pamela Brennan of the Haight-Ashbury Flower Power Walking Tour.
Walking along the streets of the Haight during the Summer of Love, one could distinctly smell the aroma of burning marijuana.
Not anymore. The “health-conscious” wave has hit the Haight -- wheatgrass -- it’s the new green wonder. Fresh wheatgrass juice is made from raw, soil-grown wheatgrass. Two ounces of fresh wheatgrass juice is equivalent to the nutritional value of roughly four pounds of organic green vegetables in vitamin and mineral content. Taken orally on an empty stomach, it is assimilated into the blood in about 20 minutes. The vitality lasts throughout the day -- with no toxic side-effects. Quite contrary to the “grass” of the hippie era.
The new grass of the Haight may taste strong, but it can also be mixed into various juices or even salad dressings to dilute the taste without losing the benefits.
Contact Pamela Brennan, Haight-Ashbury Flower Power Walking Tour at 415-553-8542.
THE CASTROLocation: Southern side of Twin Peaks, bordered by Market, 20th and Noe streets
Rainbow flags -- the banner adopted by the gay community -- have adorned the vibrantly painted Victorian houses of Eureka Valley for the last 40 years, now home to an ever-changing neighborhood of shops, restaurants, street fairs and residents.
This valley began as a quiet neighborhood made up of working class Germans, Scandinavians, Italians and Irish who left for the suburbs after World War II. In the early 70s, the rapid influx of gay and lesbian people into San Francisco revitalized the neighborhood as they renovated the old houses and rebuilt their own community, a gay Mecca.
Kathy Amendola, owner of “Cruisin’ the Castro” walking tour, believes that the Martini, also originally attributed to the Intercontinental Mark Hopkins on Nob Hill, has moved over to the Castro. She said, “Martinis are the favorite here. They have style, class and potency!”
The community is not only made up of gays and lesbians, but a myriad of sexuality preferences and attire: drag queens, leather-clad bikers, transgenders and others. It is easy to understand why a specific drink has not been labeled as the drink of the Castro. Would bikers drink the same drink as drag queens?
There are many myths, assumptions and preconceived ideas about this very welcoming neighborhood. It is a haven where no one points out your flaws or your attributes. The Castro holds no biases, though the drink of choice is definitely up for debate.
For a more in-depth look at the Castro, contact Amendola and investigate the many watering holes so that you can be your own judge. No one will criticize your choice in this neighborhood.
Contact Kathy Amendola, Crusin the Castro at 415- 550-8110.
Location: Bounded by Fillmore, Divisadero, California and Ellis streets.
The Fillmore District, also called The Fillmore or The Lower Fillmore, was a predominantly Jewish neighborhood in the 1800s, and around the turn of the 20th Century, its diverse population expanded to include Japanese immigrants. During World War II, however, the Japanese residents were moved to internment camps. The vacant homes attracted African American industrial workers, musicians and artists who transformed the district into a major jazz hub. It became the Harlem of the West in the ‘40s and 50s hosting jazz luminaries such as Billie Holiday, Ella Fitzgerald, Count Basie and Duke Ellington.
The Fillmore district, however, was eventually turned into a redevelopment district in the 1950s, and is in the midst of reclaiming its elevated past. It has an ethnically and economically diverse population, and is the historical center of African-American culture in San Francisco. Oakland-based jazz club Yoshi’s and the Jazz Heritage Center, opened in December 2007, joining existing venues such as the Boom Boom Room, Rasselas, the Sheba Lounge, and the well-known Fillmore Auditorium.
Andrew Generalao, general manager of Yoshi’s, has created an entire cocktail menu for the San Francisco location and recommends the “Lady Day,” named for Billie Holiday. The rum, lemon and lime juice, Japanese cucumber and simple syrup presented in an elegant glass rimmed with Matcha sugar evokes the classic sophistication of jazz, yet modern and diverse – just like the Fillmore District.
Contact Andrew Generalao through Brigid Finley, Wagstaff Worldwide for Yoshi’s San Francisco at 415-274-2510.
JAPANTOWN/NIHONMACHILocation: Bounded by Van Ness, Fillmore, Geary and Bush streets.
Japantown, “J-Town” or Nihonmachi is home to more than 12,000 residents of Japanese decent. It is the largest Japantown in California, although it is only a shadow of what it originally was before its residents were relocated to internment camps during World War II.
The redeveloped area now comprises a five-acre shopping complex of Japanese (and some Korean and Chinese) restaurants, supermarkets, indoor shopping malls, hotels, banks and other shops, including one of the few U.S. branches of the large Kinokuniya bookstore chain. At Nihonmachi’s center is the Peace Pagoda, a five-tiered concrete stupa, a symbol of eternal peace, designed by Japanese architect Yoshiro Taniguchi and presented to San Francisco by the people of Osaka, Japan, in 1968. The shop-lined Nihonmachi Mall was designed to imitate a traditional Japanese village.
Sake is the natural favorite here. The taste as well as the tradition can be enjoyed in authentic Japanese environments or with a more modern flavor at places like Bushi-tei restaurant, which serves a pineapple sake with a flavor of mint for dessert. "Plum wine is very sweet, but sake with pineapple very refreshing," said Tak Matsuba, owner of bushi-tei.
Contact Tak Matsuba, bushi-tei at 415-440-4959.
THE MISSIONLocation: East base of Twin Peaks, bordered by Potrero Hill, Bernal Heights and 14th Street
The Mission District derives its name from Mission Dolores, near 16th and Dolores Streets. It was part of several large land-grants that were broken up with the secession of Mexico from Spain in 1821. After World War II, many of the middle class of the Mission joined the move to the suburbs of San Francisco. Thus, Latinos (Nicaraguan, Mexican, Cuban, Peruvian, Argentinean and others) eventually moved into these vacancies in the Mission. Today more than 52 percent of the Mission District’s population is Latino.
Calvin Schneiter, owner of Andalu Restaurant, a favorite culinary oasis in the Mission, chooses sangria as the “official” drink of this barrio. “Sangria is a refreshing drink prepared with the freshest of fruits, hints of cinnamon, and plenty of love, passion and ‘sabor Latino,’” he says. “Sangria evokes feelings of celebration as it is a colorful drink that can be shared with friends and family.”
Contact Calvin Schneiter , Andalu at 415-621-2211.
Location: West of 47th between Point Lobos and Judah streets.
Ocean Beach begins where Golden Gate Park ends and where San Francisco kisses the Pacific Ocean. The area is known for its cold weather, mysterious fog and high velocity winds. It’s also famous for its challenging surf and is a favorite spot among surfers, who look like sea lions wrestling with boards. The area was once considered a resort and was referred to as the “Outside Lands.” Trolley cars brought visitors from the heart of downtown San Francisco to “Playland at the Beach” – a large amusement park – the Cliff House restaurant and the Sutro Baths, an enclosed fresh and salt water aquatic park that catered to the rich and famous.
The neighborhood is now residential, although Sutro Park, the Sutro Bath ruins, the Cliff House and Lands End (a park of the Golden Gate Parks Conservancy) are magnets that draw people from the beyond its borders.
The Beach Chalet Brewery & Restaurant is located above the Golden Gate Park Visitor’s Center in front of Ocean beach. It features dramatic and historic WPA frescoes created by Lucien Labaudt in the 1930’s, and romantic views of the Pacific Ocean’s surf. There’s no better place to unwind after flying a kite, running your dog, or enjoying an ocean-view sunset than with a beer, which owner Lara Truppelli nominates as the official drink of sandy dunes.
The Beach Chalet is known for its hops and barley creations named after local landmarks of the past and present. There’s Seal Rock Bock, Presidio IPA, Fleishhacker Stout or the Ocean Beach Oktoberfest, all recalling the fun-loving yet mysterious nature of Ocean Beach.
Contact Lara Truppeli, Beach Chalet at 415-386-8439.
San Francisco is a world to explore, breathe, taste and drink in. Each neighborhood has something different to offer, which is what makes San Francisco so enticing to the locals, visitors and taste buds. Explore San Francisco neighborhoods online at www.sanfrancisco.travel.
